904L vs 316L Stainless Steel in Watches: A Comparison by Romlicen Watch Company

316L VS 904L Stainless Steel in Watches
Discover the difference between affordable 316L and luxury 904L stainless steel for watches. Understand which grade offers the best corrosion resistance for your new timepiece.

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Stainless steel plays a critical role in watchmaking. From luxury dive watches built to withstand the ocean’s corrosion to economical timepieces meeting daily wear and tear, the type of steel used impacts durability, aesthetics, and cost.

As a leading Chinese watch manufacturer crafting custom timepieces for brands across the world, we often get questions around two of the most popular grades of stainless steel – 316L and 904L. Both offer excellent corrosion resistance, but 904L takes it a step further.

In this article, we’ll explore what sets 316L and 904L stainless steel apart. We’ll compare their chemical compositions, hardness, price points, corrosion performance in environments like saltwater, and suitability for different watch types. Whether you’re looking to balance cost and resilience or achieve the highest grade steel for marine conditions, understanding the nuances of 316L vs 904L will ensure you select the right metal for your custom watch design.

Overview of 316 Stainless Steel

Let’s start with a brief overview of the ubiquitous 316 grade. Sometimes referred to as marine grade or surgical steel, 316 stainless is an alloy blend containing iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, and other elements. The majority of its composition includes:

  • Chromium: 16-18%
  • Nickel: 10-14%
  • Molybdenum: 2-3%
  • Manganese: Up to 2%
  • Carbon: 0.08% max

The high chromium and nickel content gives 316 stainless excellent corrosion resistance and durability. The addition of molybdenum further enhances resistance to pitting and saltwater damage.

Meanwhile, the low carbon content helps 316 stainless maintain its corrosion performance through welding and manufacturing processes. This also enables modification into the 316L variant, where the “L” denotes lower carbon to boost corrosion protection.

Thanks to its versatile resistance, 316 stainless is popular for:

  • Kitchen appliances
  • Architectural features like railings
  • Chemical transport and processing equipment
  • Medical implants and surgical tools
  • Marine applications like boat propellers and shafts
  • Watch cases, bracelets, and accents

Affordability combined with rugged performance makes 316 (and 316L) an economical choice for watchmakers. From Citizen to Hamilton to Glycine and deep into the affordable spectrum, brands leverage 316L when a premium steel like 904L exceeds budget needs.

316L Stainless Steel Watch
316L Stainless Steel Watch

Overview of 904L Stainless Steel

At the higher end of corrosion resistant steels sits 904L stainless. As an austenitic steel like 316L, 904L also brings excellent formability and weldability. But its chemical composition takes durability to the next level:

  • Chromium: 19-23%
  • Nickel: 23-28%
  • Copper: 1-2%
  • Molybdenum: 4-5%

The most noticeable enhancement comes from higher chromium and nickel content compared to 316L. This strengthens 904L’s passive layer protection against corrosion. The addition of copper provides further resistance to acids like sulfuric and phosphoric.

Meanwhile, 904L contains only trace amounts of carbon, minimizing carbide precipitation risks during welding or high temperature exposures. Its PREN number, calculating an alloy’s “pitting resistance equivalent”, also handily outperforms 316 and most stainless grades.

With its extreme corrosion performance and non-magnetic quality, key applications of 904L include:

  • Sea water equipment like valves, pumps, and heat exchangers
  • Chemical processing hardware
  • Sour gas handling in oil and gas extraction
  • Pollution control equipment
  • Medical implants
  • High-end watchmaking

While 904L carries a higher price tag than workhorse grades like 316L, some watchmakers see it as an essential investment for extremely corrosive environments. As the pioneers driving 904L’s use for superyacht-worthy dive watches, luxury brands like Rolex have made 904L synonymous with top-tier timepieces.

904L Stainless Steel Watch
904L Stainless Steel Watch

Head-to-Head Comparison

Now that we’ve reviewed both 316L and 904L individually, let’s directly compare some of their key characteristics:

Corrosion Resistance

The most critical difference comes down to corrosion performance. With higher chromium, nickel, and molybdenum content, 904L stainless clearly beats 316L in resisting rust, oxidation, and saltwater damage over time. 904L’s PREN routinely lands between 34 and 39, while 316L drops to 26.

If your custom watch needs to handle highly saline or chemical conditions for years on end, 904L will likely become the wiser lifetime investment.


By the same token, 904L’s improved corrosion resistance translates into enhanced long-term durability compared to 316L stainless. The increased chromium enables a more robust passive layer shielding the metal underneath. This leads to better wear resistance as well.


With the benefit of better corrosion performance comes the cost drawback. 904L’s specialized composition using more nickel and chromium carries a price tag 2 to 4 times higher than common grade 316L. However, for small watch components weighing less than 100 grams, the absolute cost difference remains reasonable for most brands.


When it comes to hardness, 316L and 904L offer similar performance. Both earn lower Rockwell hardness scores than other alloys like tool steels or cobalt chromium. However, both 904L and 316L deliver substantial ruggedness for watchmaking needs even if maximum scratch resistance isn’t the top priority.

The chart below summarizes the main compositional differences between 316L VS 904L:

316L vs 904L
316L vs 904L

Which is Better - 316L vs 904L

With their differing balances of cost, corrosion performance, and longevity, is one steel clearly better than the other for watches?

For dive watches or designs targeting saline resistance as a selling point, 904L makes the superior choice. The extra durability, exemplified by brands like Rolex using 904L for their Sea-Dweller collections, gives watches a leg up in ocean conditions. Engineering matters like thicker cases still contribute at extreme depths, but 904L’s lifesaving corrosion resistance offers essential insurance as well.

Meanwhile, for everyday wear or field watches where price matters more than seawaterExposure, economical 316L stainless holds its own. The alloy brings sufficient corrosion protection for most lifestyles while costing a fraction compared to premium 904L metal. Brands focusing on delivering value, reliability, and heritage styling lean on time-tested 316L to make costs work.

For us, the watch brand’s priorities and target lifestyle dictate the best pick. As a flexible OEM/ODM factory crafting custom watches to clients’exact needs, we have experience precision machining both 316L and 904L. A desert patrol watch enduring hot sandy winds needs different protection than a regatta timer tracking sailboat races along tropical coasts. By understanding our clients’ goals and constraints, we can advise whether rugged 316L or elite 904L makes the ideal choice for each new watch release.

Romlicen Custom Watch Manufacturing Services

With over a decade crafting OEM and ODM watches for discerning clients worldwide, Romlicen brings hands-on expertise fabricating cases, bracelets, and components from both 316L and 904L grade stainless steels.

Our in-house capabilities span the entire production pathway – from CNC machining and welding through polishing, finishing, and quality assurance. And our expertise also extends into precision detail work like applying custom logos or branding onto watch components using advanced laser technology.

For buyers establishing a new watch brand, we offer flexible OEM partnerships. Work directly with our engineers to translate your visions into physical form – selecting the perfect steel for durability needs and cost targets alike.

For existing brands seeking new inventory, our ODM services deliver ready-to-wear watches tailored for your label and customer expectations. We smoothly match target price points, quality levels, and design aesthetic needs.

Whether you have aggressive launch timelines for a catalog of new watches or need to seamlessly blend heritage styling with modern tech, Romlicen delivers. Backed by 150 skilled workers fulfilling orders of 100 to 100,000+ pieces, we combine artisanal Swiss quality with smart Chinese manufacturing power.

If you have questions navigating 316L versus 904L for an upcoming watch release, or want to explore how our OEM/ODM services can turn dreams into shipped products, contact our support team today. We look forward to matching the right stainless steel grades to your watchmaking goals and bringing your visions to reality.


When choosing the ideal stainless steel for watchmaking applications, both 316L and 904L offer excellent corrosion resistance and durability to meet the demands of daily wear and adventure alike. 316L provides an affordable, versatile option suitable for field watches and brands focusing value propositions. Meanwhile 904L, while costing more due to specialized composition and processing needs, excels as the premiere steel for diving watches and seawater exposure.

By reviewing key factors like composition, hardness, application history in wristwatches, and cost considerations, manufacturers can navigate the nuances of these popular alloys. Selecting the correct base steel sets the foundation for both performance and long term consumer enjoyment.

As an esteemed watch factory crafting custom OEM and ODM timepieces with clients worldwide, Romlicen provides guidance during the design process to pick the optimum grade for your specific watch collection. Our engineering experts understand the real-world implications of 316L versus 904L selection from years of in-house manufacturing expertise.

To explore how Romlicen can translate your watch visions from renders to delivered products with quality 316L or 904L stainless steel components, contact our team today. We look forward to tailoring the perfect solutions to match your brand’s needs from both a technical and commercial perspective while upholding rigorous quality standards.

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Picture of Romlicen - China Watch Manufacturer

Romlicen - China Watch Manufacturer

Romlicen is a leading custom watch manufacturer in China, specializing in OEM and ODM services. With expertise in crafting men's and women's watches, stainless steel timepieces, and both quartz and mechanical movements, we blend traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology. Our commitment to quality and innovation makes us the preferred partner for watch brands worldwide. For custom watch solutions, contact sales@romlicenwatch.com.